samedi 31 octobre 2009
Châteauneuf and the Papal tradition of planting vine
Vine cultivation, already known to the Gauls, was widely developed by the Romans. Monks were the first to clear the land and cultivate these vineyards and Bishops were instrumental in extending vine cultivation. In 1157, in keeping with Roman tradition, Geoffrey, the Bishop of Avignon, planted vines and personally managed his own estate and was most certainly the owner of a vineyard located in his fief in Châteauneuf.
In the 13th century the village of Châteauneuf, with its 1000 inhabitants, grew rich and had already developed a flourishing vineyard (approximately 300 hectares).
In 1308, Clément V planted additional vine stock before he died some years later just after crossing the Rhône to return home. The Pope at Avignon was undoubtedly one of the first wine producers in Châteauneuf.
Under Pope John XXII, wine from Châteauneuf was regularly supplied to the Papal residence. John XXII was beyond doubt the prelate who participated most in developing the reputation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines and his legacy, the first appellation in the history of Châteauneuf, was the prestigious appellation of "Vin du Pape" that was later to become "Châteauneuf-du-Pape ".
John XXII was also responsible for building the famous castle. Today the remains of the proud Papas summer residence house the headquarters of the "Echansonnerie des Papes" a brotherhood that bears high and with pride the reputation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape . The final homage to this Papal lineage, the first to take pride in cultivating the sun-drenched fruit of their precious land.
A prosperous vineyard
Despite a decline in the 17th century due to wars, heavy frosts, epidemics and other endemic diseases, the vineyards developed considerably from the 18th century onwards. In about 1800, 668 hectares that included 325 hectares of vines in small plots of approximately 1400 m2, produced, in a normal year, an average of 11 000 hectolitres of wines. The wine trade took on great importance and the inhabitants continued to plant new plots of land.
By virtue of the quality of its wine, Châteauneuf du Pape remained prosperous until the phylloxera disaster. Cultivation methods had varied little through the centuries. The first important charges occurred just before the outbreak of the second world war when mechanisation was first introduced.
Grape varieties : the first harmonious blends
Nothing is known of the vine stocks that made up the Châteauneuf vineyard before the 18th century, even though the poet Frédéric Mistral claimed that the "Counoise" grape variety was a gift from Spain to Pope Urbain V. In 1808, the vineyard was planted with old plants of local origin and new plants from Spain that produced "a warm-hearted but delicate wine that should be left to mature for four years".
Around 1830, the first vine "with a fine plant known as Cirac" was cultivated at Châteauneuf du Pape. It was because of their desire to enhance their wines and improve quality that, as the years went by, the winegrower tried many new grape varieties. One thing of which we are certain is that for centuries, the vineyard was always planted with various grape varieties. When the phylloxera disaster struck in 1866, more than thirteen different grape varieties were on record. Grape variety diversification is the result of work by several generations of winegrower to select the vine stocks most likely to improve the quality of their wines.
At the end of the last century, Joseph Ducos grouped together on his estate ten carefully selected grape varieties. Even then, the characteristics and flavours of Châteauneuf wines were very varied and, like all Rhône Valley wines, generous.
Grenache and Cinsault for "sweetness, Warmth and mellowness.
Mourvèdre, Syrah, Muscardin and Camarèse for robustness, maturity, colour and a thirst-quenching taste.
Counoise and Picpoul for vinosity, charm and a special bouquet.
Clairette and Bourboulenc for finesse, fire and brilliance.
The royal road : a flourishing trade.
From 1500 onwards, Châteauneuf wines acquired a certain reputation as can be seen from the many bills of sale made out to purchasers from Orange and Avignon. According to Nostradamus, other important prelates had wine shipped as far as Italy. In his history of Provence, he recounts the attack led by Parpaille (1562) against "Châteauneuf known as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, an area that produces most excellent wines, some of which are shipped to Rome".
In 1793, the wine growers were able to sell their wine at one third above the maximum price for local, as "Châteauneuf wine is known to be of superior quality in all seasons". The Marquis Tulle de Villefranche shipped his wines all over France, to Italy, Germany, Britain and also to Boston and Philadelphia in the United States. His wine was distributed through a network of agents so that it could become better known and appreciated by his aristocratic friends. He therefore played a very important role in promoting Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines.
Most winegrowers, like the Marquis, chose to give first priority to quality. It is therefore not surprising that by the end of the 18th century, trade was flourishing. There were already four wine merchants in Châteauneuf , and a great number of buyers came from Avignon, Orange, Carpentras and even from as far afield as Lyon. Barrels of wine were shipped to all parts of France from the port of Roquemaure and sometimes from Armeniers. Other were transported by road.
Frédéric Mistral sang the praises of Châteauneuf du Pape wine, which he had savoured when visiting his friend the Provençal poet, Anselme MATHIEU. Wine grower and poet, he was the first to have the brilliant idea of selling wines in bottles decorated with an attractive label bearing the words "Vin DI Filigree" followed by 5 lines of verse that included "Lou vin de castou noù souno la voio, emai lou cant, emai l'amour, emai la joio" (wine from Châteauneuf brings courage, melody, love and joy). Mistral delighted his fellow authors Lamartine, Alexandre Dumas, Alphonse Daudet together with a host of other celebrities who were to become the best possible ambassadors of this "royal, imperial and Papal wine".
Vine cultivation, already known to the Gauls, was widely developed by the Romans. Monks were the first to clear the land and cultivate these vineyards and Bishops were instrumental in extending vine cultivation. In 1157, in keeping with Roman tradition, Geoffrey, the Bishop of Avignon, planted vines and personally managed his own estate and was most certainly the owner of a vineyard located in his fief in Châteauneuf.
In the 13th century the village of Châteauneuf, with its 1000 inhabitants, grew rich and had already developed a flourishing vineyard (approximately 300 hectares).
In 1308, Clément V planted additional vine stock before he died some years later just after crossing the Rhône to return home. The Pope at Avignon was undoubtedly one of the first wine producers in Châteauneuf.
Under Pope John XXII, wine from Châteauneuf was regularly supplied to the Papal residence. John XXII was beyond doubt the prelate who participated most in developing the reputation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines and his legacy, the first appellation in the history of Châteauneuf, was the prestigious appellation of "Vin du Pape" that was later to become "Châteauneuf-du-Pape ".
John XXII was also responsible for building the famous castle. Today the remains of the proud Papas summer residence house the headquarters of the "Echansonnerie des Papes" a brotherhood that bears high and with pride the reputation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape . The final homage to this Papal lineage, the first to take pride in cultivating the sun-drenched fruit of their precious land.
A prosperous vineyard
Despite a decline in the 17th century due to wars, heavy frosts, epidemics and other endemic diseases, the vineyards developed considerably from the 18th century onwards. In about 1800, 668 hectares that included 325 hectares of vines in small plots of approximately 1400 m2, produced, in a normal year, an average of 11 000 hectolitres of wines. The wine trade took on great importance and the inhabitants continued to plant new plots of land.
By virtue of the quality of its wine, Châteauneuf du Pape remained prosperous until the phylloxera disaster. Cultivation methods had varied little through the centuries. The first important charges occurred just before the outbreak of the second world war when mechanisation was first introduced.
Grape varieties : the first harmonious blends
Nothing is known of the vine stocks that made up the Châteauneuf vineyard before the 18th century, even though the poet Frédéric Mistral claimed that the "Counoise" grape variety was a gift from Spain to Pope Urbain V. In 1808, the vineyard was planted with old plants of local origin and new plants from Spain that produced "a warm-hearted but delicate wine that should be left to mature for four years".
Around 1830, the first vine "with a fine plant known as Cirac" was cultivated at Châteauneuf du Pape. It was because of their desire to enhance their wines and improve quality that, as the years went by, the winegrower tried many new grape varieties. One thing of which we are certain is that for centuries, the vineyard was always planted with various grape varieties. When the phylloxera disaster struck in 1866, more than thirteen different grape varieties were on record. Grape variety diversification is the result of work by several generations of winegrower to select the vine stocks most likely to improve the quality of their wines.
At the end of the last century, Joseph Ducos grouped together on his estate ten carefully selected grape varieties. Even then, the characteristics and flavours of Châteauneuf wines were very varied and, like all Rhône Valley wines, generous.
Grenache and Cinsault for "sweetness, Warmth and mellowness.
Mourvèdre, Syrah, Muscardin and Camarèse for robustness, maturity, colour and a thirst-quenching taste.
Counoise and Picpoul for vinosity, charm and a special bouquet.
Clairette and Bourboulenc for finesse, fire and brilliance.
The royal road : a flourishing trade.
From 1500 onwards, Châteauneuf wines acquired a certain reputation as can be seen from the many bills of sale made out to purchasers from Orange and Avignon. According to Nostradamus, other important prelates had wine shipped as far as Italy. In his history of Provence, he recounts the attack led by Parpaille (1562) against "Châteauneuf known as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, an area that produces most excellent wines, some of which are shipped to Rome".
In 1793, the wine growers were able to sell their wine at one third above the maximum price for local, as "Châteauneuf wine is known to be of superior quality in all seasons". The Marquis Tulle de Villefranche shipped his wines all over France, to Italy, Germany, Britain and also to Boston and Philadelphia in the United States. His wine was distributed through a network of agents so that it could become better known and appreciated by his aristocratic friends. He therefore played a very important role in promoting Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines.
Most winegrowers, like the Marquis, chose to give first priority to quality. It is therefore not surprising that by the end of the 18th century, trade was flourishing. There were already four wine merchants in Châteauneuf , and a great number of buyers came from Avignon, Orange, Carpentras and even from as far afield as Lyon. Barrels of wine were shipped to all parts of France from the port of Roquemaure and sometimes from Armeniers. Other were transported by road.
Frédéric Mistral sang the praises of Châteauneuf du Pape wine, which he had savoured when visiting his friend the Provençal poet, Anselme MATHIEU. Wine grower and poet, he was the first to have the brilliant idea of selling wines in bottles decorated with an attractive label bearing the words "Vin DI Filigree" followed by 5 lines of verse that included "Lou vin de castou noù souno la voio, emai lou cant, emai l'amour, emai la joio" (wine from Châteauneuf brings courage, melody, love and joy). Mistral delighted his fellow authors Lamartine, Alexandre Dumas, Alphonse Daudet together with a host of other celebrities who were to become the best possible ambassadors of this "royal, imperial and Papal wine".
jeudi 29 octobre 2009
mardi 27 octobre 2009
lundi 19 octobre 2009
jeudi 15 octobre 2009
mercredi 14 octobre 2009
Fine dining @ Fine food
Quand les Francais reinventent leur pause dejeuner
Lentement mais sûrement, les parts de marché du hamburger sur le secteur de la restauration rapide, un des rares à avoir profité de la crise économique, sont grignotées par des alternatives séduisantes. Entre les pâtes prêtes à consommer, les étalages de la grande distribution, les fast-foods de chefs étoilés... la concurrence est rude.
"Dans un contexte de récession économique, et son corollaire de mauvaises nouvelles, les ménages choisissent massivement les établissements où l'addition est la plus basse", note Valérie Cohen, dans Le marché de la restauration rapide, les nouveaux concepts, une étude réalisée par le cabinet de conseil Xerfi.
Si les statistiques restent très favorables aux leaders du marché – 71 % des repas pris en dehors du domicile coûtent moins de 10 euros TTC, boissons comprises – McDonald's, Quick, Brioche Dorée et Paul doivent désormais faire face à trois nouvelles tendances : la restauration rapide thématisée (autour des pâtes par exemple), les produits proposés par la grande distribution, et les fast-foods haut de gamme.
DIVERSIFIER POUR MIEUX REGNER
"Maintenant qu'on a fait le tour du sandwich et du hamburger on cherche à diversifier l'offre" explique Bernard Boutboul, directeur du cabinet Gira Conseil, spécialisé dans la restauration. Selon lui, "S'ils se débrouillent bien, Mezzo di pasta et Francesca, enseignes spécialisées dans les pâtes, ont de très beaux jours devant elles".
Le principe se veut ludique : les pâtes sont préparées à la demande, accompagnées d'une sauce au choix parmi une dizaine de propositions, et dont le prix varient entre 1,50 € et 6 € pour les recettes les plus sophistiquées. Prêtes à emporter, dans des boîtes en carton plastifié, elles peuvent aussi être consommées sur place. Considérées comme "un plat plus sain que le hamburger ou la pizza", le concept plaît beaucoup aux femmes, souligne Carine Ledoux, responsable marketing et communication de Viagio, une des enseignes de fast-foods de pâtes. La vigilance reste néanmoins de mise pour M. Boutboul : "Le monoproduit n'est pas un franc succès en France, il est important que ces établissements diversifient progressivement leur offre pour fidéliser les clients."
Les grandes surfaces l'ont bien compris. Monoprix, avec son Daily Monop', propose une gamme de produits en self-service, donc encore plus rapide. Avec une addition de 9 euros en moyenne, et déjà 7 magasins indépendants, la direction aurait l'intention de développer ce mode de distribution dans tout l'Hexagone. La concurrence suit : Franprix a lancé le concept du Frais and fresh, des produits moyen de gamme avec la possibilité de les réchauffer sur place.
"LES CHEFS RENDENT AU FAST-FOOD SES LETTRES DE NOBLESSE"
Dernière tendance, celle du fast-food chic, qui redore le blason d'un genre jusque-là boudé par les gourmets. Ceux qui, comme Exki (une enseigne de fast-foods bios), vantent les mérites du "naturel et sain, sans additifs" sont en forte progression. Pour Laurent Khan, directeur général d'Exki, "l'équilibre alimentaire des recettes en général, et non seulement sur quelques produits comme dans les fast-foods traditionnels, représente un avantage". Et ce malgré des prix sensiblement plus élevés que ceux de McDonald's (le ticket moyen est à 12 euros sur place). Mais "ces établissements visent une clientèle aisée, urbaine, un microcosme pour l'instant, bien qu'ils soient sous le feux des projecteurs", rappelle Bernard Boutboul.
Même si "la restauration rapide haut de gamme est encore marginale, et ne vise pas la même clientèle que celle des leaders de la restauration rapide, elle est fondamentale car elle influence le marché." Lorsque des chefs étoilés au guide Michelin, comme Paul Bocuse, se lancent dans le "toasté de jambon cuit au torchon et son comté AOC", "un tabou disparaît : la restauration rapide n'est plus le pendant négatif de la tradition. Les Américains ont les yeux rivés sur le territoire français : le pays de la gastronomie est en train de réinventer la restauration rapide par le haut... La France fait un pas qui est vraiment unique", veut croire Bernard Boutboul.
Ni le bio, ni la haute gastronomie ne semblent cependant en mesure d'inquiéter le célèbre M jaune. Le chiffre d'affaire des enseignes émergentes reste encore bien en dessous de celui des leaders du marché. McDonald's – dont la stratégie de développement s'adapte, petit à petit à la concurrence – a réalisé en 2008 un chiffre d'affaires de plus de 3 milliards d'euros en France. En hausse de plus de 11 % par rapport à l'année précédente. Des chiffres qui devraient encore progresser en 2009, où la firme prévoyait la création de 30 nouveaux restaurants.
Célia Héron
Lentement mais sûrement, les parts de marché du hamburger sur le secteur de la restauration rapide, un des rares à avoir profité de la crise économique, sont grignotées par des alternatives séduisantes. Entre les pâtes prêtes à consommer, les étalages de la grande distribution, les fast-foods de chefs étoilés... la concurrence est rude.
"Dans un contexte de récession économique, et son corollaire de mauvaises nouvelles, les ménages choisissent massivement les établissements où l'addition est la plus basse", note Valérie Cohen, dans Le marché de la restauration rapide, les nouveaux concepts, une étude réalisée par le cabinet de conseil Xerfi.
Si les statistiques restent très favorables aux leaders du marché – 71 % des repas pris en dehors du domicile coûtent moins de 10 euros TTC, boissons comprises – McDonald's, Quick, Brioche Dorée et Paul doivent désormais faire face à trois nouvelles tendances : la restauration rapide thématisée (autour des pâtes par exemple), les produits proposés par la grande distribution, et les fast-foods haut de gamme.
DIVERSIFIER POUR MIEUX REGNER
"Maintenant qu'on a fait le tour du sandwich et du hamburger on cherche à diversifier l'offre" explique Bernard Boutboul, directeur du cabinet Gira Conseil, spécialisé dans la restauration. Selon lui, "S'ils se débrouillent bien, Mezzo di pasta et Francesca, enseignes spécialisées dans les pâtes, ont de très beaux jours devant elles".
Le principe se veut ludique : les pâtes sont préparées à la demande, accompagnées d'une sauce au choix parmi une dizaine de propositions, et dont le prix varient entre 1,50 € et 6 € pour les recettes les plus sophistiquées. Prêtes à emporter, dans des boîtes en carton plastifié, elles peuvent aussi être consommées sur place. Considérées comme "un plat plus sain que le hamburger ou la pizza", le concept plaît beaucoup aux femmes, souligne Carine Ledoux, responsable marketing et communication de Viagio, une des enseignes de fast-foods de pâtes. La vigilance reste néanmoins de mise pour M. Boutboul : "Le monoproduit n'est pas un franc succès en France, il est important que ces établissements diversifient progressivement leur offre pour fidéliser les clients."
Les grandes surfaces l'ont bien compris. Monoprix, avec son Daily Monop', propose une gamme de produits en self-service, donc encore plus rapide. Avec une addition de 9 euros en moyenne, et déjà 7 magasins indépendants, la direction aurait l'intention de développer ce mode de distribution dans tout l'Hexagone. La concurrence suit : Franprix a lancé le concept du Frais and fresh, des produits moyen de gamme avec la possibilité de les réchauffer sur place.
"LES CHEFS RENDENT AU FAST-FOOD SES LETTRES DE NOBLESSE"
Dernière tendance, celle du fast-food chic, qui redore le blason d'un genre jusque-là boudé par les gourmets. Ceux qui, comme Exki (une enseigne de fast-foods bios), vantent les mérites du "naturel et sain, sans additifs" sont en forte progression. Pour Laurent Khan, directeur général d'Exki, "l'équilibre alimentaire des recettes en général, et non seulement sur quelques produits comme dans les fast-foods traditionnels, représente un avantage". Et ce malgré des prix sensiblement plus élevés que ceux de McDonald's (le ticket moyen est à 12 euros sur place). Mais "ces établissements visent une clientèle aisée, urbaine, un microcosme pour l'instant, bien qu'ils soient sous le feux des projecteurs", rappelle Bernard Boutboul.
Même si "la restauration rapide haut de gamme est encore marginale, et ne vise pas la même clientèle que celle des leaders de la restauration rapide, elle est fondamentale car elle influence le marché." Lorsque des chefs étoilés au guide Michelin, comme Paul Bocuse, se lancent dans le "toasté de jambon cuit au torchon et son comté AOC", "un tabou disparaît : la restauration rapide n'est plus le pendant négatif de la tradition. Les Américains ont les yeux rivés sur le territoire français : le pays de la gastronomie est en train de réinventer la restauration rapide par le haut... La France fait un pas qui est vraiment unique", veut croire Bernard Boutboul.
Ni le bio, ni la haute gastronomie ne semblent cependant en mesure d'inquiéter le célèbre M jaune. Le chiffre d'affaire des enseignes émergentes reste encore bien en dessous de celui des leaders du marché. McDonald's – dont la stratégie de développement s'adapte, petit à petit à la concurrence – a réalisé en 2008 un chiffre d'affaires de plus de 3 milliards d'euros en France. En hausse de plus de 11 % par rapport à l'année précédente. Des chiffres qui devraient encore progresser en 2009, où la firme prévoyait la création de 30 nouveaux restaurants.
Célia Héron
mardi 13 octobre 2009
samedi 10 octobre 2009
dimanche 4 octobre 2009
samedi 3 octobre 2009
Inscription à :
Articles (Atom)
